The Takeout Fry
(page 2 of 3)
6401 University Ave., Middleton
The only real ambience Crandall’s offers visitors is also the most revealing. That’d be the long line of cars clogging the drive-through loop at the catering company’s modest University Avenue location.
Nearly seventy years after the physical restaurant first opened on the Square—back then, they advertised steak, not fish, as their primary specialty—Crandall’s is still serving the same fish fry recipe that’s worth waiting in the que to score. The fish, of course, forms the backbone of the experience—fried Atlantic cod, haddock and perch, with baked options, too—but the potato options are what bring it to another level. If you’re smart, you’ll opt for the roasted reds, covered in a cheese sauce that makes ’em the perfect complement.
Ivan Pimentel, who’s owned Crandall’s since 1994, now offers the fry every weeknight in addition to his business’s catering services. On typical Fridays, his staff will box up an average of three hundred orders, a number that leaps as high as 450 during Lent. Given the weekly volume, Pimentel has learned to plan for any eventuality. Three years ago, he ran out of cod and perch and had to switch to a different fish. Customers noticed—and revolted. “I learned not to run out,” he deadpans. “I invested in a walk-in freezer.”