Find Truly Delicious Food at La Brioche
This west-side restaurant's cooking is the real deal
In a world of generic, earth-toned bakery/cafés, La Brioche True Food is a thoroughly unique, eye-pleasing alternative that boasts food made from scratch with local ingredients. Co-owner David Yankovich (with wife Jacquelyn Patricia) says the name refers to serving “a clean menu.” That means crafting recipes with ingredients such as locally sourced, nitrate/nitrite-free lunch meats, Kickapoo Coffee, Jacobson Bros. antibiotic-free chicken, Prairie Bluff eggs, Rishi Tea and B’s Honey.
Yankovich co-owned the famed Ovens of Brittany before striking off twenty-five years ago and acquiring La Brioche from its former owner. But don’t be fooled by its strip-mall location: This is a place you’ll want to linger, if not for the food, then for the ambiance. Comfy upholstered wingback chairs are paired up with tables, tailor-made for two friends to chat. There are also leather booths and a shabby-chic aesthetic that defies any sort of generic look (also check out the hot-pink Victorian wallpaper in the back). Yankovich observes that many customers “just don’t want to leave—but it’s a good thing!”
One more thing: don’t look at the menu online. Or do, only if you’re planning on immediately driving over after reading the delectable breakfast, lunch and dinner options: vanilla challah French toast, open-faced roasted vegetable sandwich, sausage sage pizza, beef bourguignon, sherried chicken skewers.
In addition to offering true foods, Yankovich wants his customers to feel refreshed when they leave: “We want to brighten your day and lift you up.” I think a house-made cookie might do just that.
• La Brioche True Food, 2862 University Ave. 233-3388. labriochetruefood.com